I am not able print anything. After issues "Upload & Print" via Octoprint, the homing works but, the printhead makes a terribly slow movement to the build plate and starts printing right away without waiting for the correct temp to reach. Thankfully, octoprint blocks the extrusion

Send: G1 X13.569 Y15.167 E6.42610
Recv: echo: cold extrusion prevented
Recv: ok

Attaching the test file - sunglass_holderv3_PLA_30m.gcode.txt

@moonglow can you test it ?

The Park position currently is placed in a weird place which isn't really convenient for changing filament. Normally the park position is out of the printable area meant for purging filaments.

The current park position is 20,140,22

Park position should be 270,150

Park position is defined by NOZZLE_PARK_POINT

refer: https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G027.html

Also, the save and go to park position is not enabled. This needs PARK_HEAD_ON_PAUSE to be enabled -

ref: https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M125.html

It looks like linear advance is disabled. This can be enabled by using

LIN_ADVANCE in configuration_adv.h

You can set the default k value to 0

More info here: https://marlinfw.org/docs/features/lin_advance.html#saving-the-k-factor-in-the-firmware ref: https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M900.html

I decided to update my working PowerSpec Ultra 3D from the current Dreamer v2.15.20200917 to FlashForge_Marlin dreamer_2.0.9.3_01102022.

FF Firmware Writer did not want to work for updating the original firmware. I was able to perform the firmware update via the FlashPrint 5 Tools, Update Firmware menu. The firmware send was successful and showed success in writing the image on reboot of the printer. After the update, the initial boot screen was displayed, followed by a Marlin splash screen (all excited). Then after about 10 seconds, the controller rebooted, returned to the boot splash, then to the Marlin splash screen, and the cycle repeats... Power on/off or reset has no impact.

To recover, the FlashPrint firmware update would not work, but I was able to use FF FIrmware Write to restore the prior firmware from backup.

I did find two methods that worked to restore the prior firmware:

1. Copy the old firmware to sys/dreamer.bin on printer internal SD, then use FF Firmware Writer to trigger the firmware update.
2. Use FF Firmware Writer to download and trigger the firmware update to the prior version over USB. Interesting that FFFW works to restore the old version when stuck with a bad load of the new firmware.

So, I'm back to running the Dreamer firmware on my PowerSpec Ultra 3D.

My PowerSpec Ultra 3D configuration:

• Model No: PS3D-ULTRA
• Purchase: Mar-2016
• FlashForge CoreBoard Rev J, V 2.2
• FlashForge DriverBoard Rev E, V 2.3
• Firmware: Dreamer 2.15 20200917

I typically work with ABS, PETG, nylon, and TPU on a glass bed w/ Kapton tape (no bonding agents).

Any guidance for how I may assist in getting this to work on my is welcome.

Enjoy! Bill

Hi :)

I have FF Dreamer and I flashed it with the latest prebuilt fw_2.0.9_dreamer_swap_la_06162021. I found issues with the swap config (MIN/MAX X) so in order to fix them, I manually compiled new firmware. I tried uploading it with sudo ./ff_flash_firmware.py fw_2.0.9_dreamer_swap_la_06212021.bin but regardless what I tried, it will timeout reading from the USB or will not write because the port went away. I do not see it able to stop the boot process at all and bootloader times out going back into the firmware.

Given that I can upload the firmware manually to the internal SD, is there a way to trigger the upload process?

The 3 point leveling works exactly like before, except that after the last point, it stays at the same place. And if the nozzle is hot, it burns the the adhesive sheet on my build plate. Actually, it makes a bump or a crater, depending on how fast i move the z axis. You shoud, or I should add just one line to send the nozzle to a parking spot , away from the buildplate ! or even better, the homing position, back left corner, of course after lowering the buildplate of a fixed amount. (Z safe distance). I never slept since yesterday, I have tried to compile the code from you, but always have problems with include path... I have been able to print a Benchy (the small boat) to a relative good quality in less than 10 minutes !

I am using Windows10 OS. I can't update the firmware using the ff_flasher provided, looks like the later FF DNX firmware is using VID 0x2B71 instead of 0x0315 (You can see that from device manager in win10)

So I managed to use the official FlashPrint firmware update function to do the samething.

Here is my procedure:

Go to X:\Program Files\FlashForge\FlashPrint\firmware\FlashForge Dreamer NX (X is your installation disk location) and copy the firmware files to that folder like this (maybe the intro file is not necessary, I didn't check)

Open FlashPrint => Tools => Update Firmware and do the things below

reboot the printer after the software is done, and the firmware is marlin now.

To get back to original firmware, I asked for the Dreamer NX TF Card Files Backup.zip from FF Customer Support Agency. They are essential files , including CJK font sets ( VERY IMPORTANT for asians like me ) and the fancy startup image. You should have them unzipped , and place them in the root directory of the internal SD card, which is needed by original FF DNX Firmware: dreamerNX_1.9.20191123.zip (github don't allow .bin extname so I got the file zipped, please unzip to get the original binary file)

Hi, before my problem I would like to say your work is amazing and much appreciated.

So I am trying to install MKS UI on my Dreamer but am unable to get it to work, I have Colour UI working using flash writer with no problems if that makes a difference. After the MKS install the screen bootloops the start bmp.

I have connected W25Q128 with dupont wires to the wifi socket but am not 100% if it is done correctly as the chip overheats after the firmware install. I followed the pinouts as per the link and connected the first SPI flash module based on numbers on the back of the WIFI module I disconnected, so if looking at the coreboard (REVH) with the writing in the correct orientation pin 1 was top left with 2 bottom left, then 3 next to 1 etc. My Dreamer only has 10 pins for the wifi so I went with that configuration. When connected like this the SPI Flash light doesn't come on during the process if that makes a difference.

Also when putting the assets onto the SD card I have been doing this on the internal SD card, do I put it in the main SD card directory or in the SRC folder with the firmware and start bmp.

When adding the asset do I put the assets folder into the directory or just the files contained in the assets folder.

Thanks in advance, any help is appreciated.

Hi, im pretty new to the firmware side of 3d printing, I loaded firmware onto my PowerSpec Ultra and im getting an m907 overcurrent error, im slicing in the ultra3d slicer with Slic3r. Maybe im making a newbie mistake but I cant figure this out.

any and all ideas would be appreciated, I can provide more details if needed

I've cleaned up the python script and added a helper script to download the release directly and flash into the printer.

NB: I tested this on MacOs and should work on *nixes.

I think this is actually a problem with the firmware ?

I had the right extruder motor disconnected and it prevented the temperature probe from working. When I plugged the motor in again, the problem went away. I repeated this several times just to make sure I did not have a bad connection somewhere.

There also seems to be something a little bit too sensitive for monitoring the bed temperature ? I have my bed set at 95c. and it seems to vary between 94c -97c. But intermittently the printer shuts down saying " thermal runaway" for the bed. At this point I can only assume that if the bed temperature is about 5c more than it should be , the printer shuts down ?

To use M149, TEMPERATURE_UNITS_SUPPORT must be define in Configuration.h

When using M149, it reports the current unit correctly..

But when trying to change to C K or F, using M149 C, M149 K or M149 F , it dosen't work, like the parser does not see only a letter, but if I use M149 and add a number after the UNIT Letter like: M149 F8 OR M149 K22, IT WORKS!!!

Probably a bug inside marlin directly, and not form this fork, but if anyone can try and let me know !!!

Thanks in advance...

My Inventor 1 never extrudes during prints, and when I go to filament change via the TFT display, the stepper motor first moves the filament down, tap continue, then it moves it up. I haven't messed with the wiring of the motor which worked properly on FF firmware

I am having an issue with GCode generated in Cura where the parts cooling fan does not turn on. Cura inserts a Select Tool command to select the second extruder (T1) at the start of the file. After this command is sent to the printer the Set Fan Speed command (M106) does not work if the fan index is not given. For example M106 S255 does not work, but M106 S255 P0 does work. There is no option in Cura that I can see to make it add the fan index to the M106 commands.

I tested this by sending T1 command to the printer and M106 S255. The fan does move momentarily sometimes but stops. Then when M106 S255 P0 is sent the fan runs as normal.

Hi, I have a Flashforge Dreamer that is only a couple of months old that I wanted to use with Cura hence the use of this fantastic firmware update.

All functions work apart from part cooling. I can turn the fan on and off from the lcd, I can also use M106 and M107 but as soon as I use a G0 command the heads start to move and the part cooling turns off. The lcd still says fan is on.

if I then use G28 the fan turns on again once the G28 is completed.

Any ideas?

Pete

I have an inventor 1, just replaced the motherboard and the sd card slot was empty. I had a backup of the firmware but i don't have what type of partition it was. Is it fat32? ntfs? exfat with a 128gb drive just shows the drive as full

Just installed the firmware on my Dremel 3D20, and it works great, other than the touchscreen being inaccurate. In the settings, for example, I have to touch the button above the one I actually want to press. Sometimes it just presses randomly as well. Is there a setting I can't find to re-calibrate it or is it something else? Thanks again